Why this recipe works
Two small techniques make payasam. First, the vermicelli is roasted in ghee until golden, which deepens its flavour (Maillard) and keeps the strands separate rather than mushy. Second, the milk is reduced so it thickens and turns rich on its own. Cardamom and ghee-fried nuts finish it. It is a sweet, so it is a treat, but a lovely one.
Ingredients
Method
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1
Roast the vermicelli in a little ghee until golden.
Why roast: toasting develops the flavour and firms the strands so they hold their shape instead of turning to mush in the milk.
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2
Simmer and reduce the milk until slightly thickened.
Why reduce: cooking the milk down concentrates its solids so the payasam is rich and creamy without any cream.
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3
Cook the roasted vermicelli in the milk until soft, then stir in the sugar and crushed cardamom.
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4
Finish with ghee-fried cashews and raisins.
An honest word
Payasam is a dessert, and it is sweet, so it is a festive treat rather than everyday food. You can make it a little better: use jaggery instead of refined sugar for a touch more character and trace minerals (add it off the boil so the milk does not split), keep the sugar sensible, and serve a modest bowl. Enjoyed as the occasional sweet it is meant to be, it earns its place.