What it is
Goda masala, "goda" meaning sweet in Marathi, is the gentle, everyday counterpart to the fiery kanda lasun masala. It is warm and subtly sweet, not hot, and it seasons the softer side of Maharashtrian cooking: vegetable bhajis, dals and amtis.
Its character comes from dagad phool (stone flower, a lichen), roasted dry coconut and sesame, over a base of coriander, cumin and warm spices. The roasting turns it dark and deeply aromatic.
The blend
Makes a small jar. Coconut, sesame and stone flower are what set it apart from a plain garam masala.
- Coriander seeds3 tbsp
- Dry coconut3 tbsp
- Sesame seeds2 tbsp
- Cumin seeds1 tbsp
- Dagad phool (stone flower) · the signature2 tbsp
- Cinnamon, cloves2 inch + 1 tsp
- Black peppercorns1 tsp
- Bay leaves2
- Dried chilli · gentle heat3
Dagad phool is the note that makes goda masala taste Maharashtrian, earthy and musky. It is worth seeking out, though the blend still works without it.
How to make it
1 · Roast in a little oil
Warm the coconut, sesame, coriander, cumin, stone flower and whole spices in a teaspoon of oil over low heat until dark and fragrant.
2 · Cool completely
Spread out and cool, this blend is oil-rich from the coconut and sesame and must not be ground warm.
3 · Grind to a fine powder
Grind everything to a dark, fine powder.
4 · Store cool, use soon
Because of the coconut and sesame oils, keep it cool and use within a month or so before it turns.
Add 1 to 2 teaspoons to vegetable bhajis, dals and amtis. It is gently sweet-warm, so it seasons rather than fires the dish.
Why these spices
The defining note is dagad phool (stone flower), a lichen whose earthy, musky aroma is unique to Maharashtrian and some Hyderabadi masalas. Roasting the dry coconut and sesame dark builds nutty, sweet depth through the Maillard reaction, which is where the "goda" (sweet) character comes from, not from any sugar. The trade-off is oil: the coconut and sesame make it richer and shorter-lived than a pure spice blend.
The honest note
Mostly just spices, with a little fat and a trace of protein from the coconut and sesame, so nothing to worry about nutritionally. The one practical note is that those oils make it turn faster than a dry blend, so make small batches and keep it cool.